The Gilded Age, spanning from the 1870s to the early 1900s, was an era marked by economic growth, social change, and extravagance, particularly in the United States. As industry boomed and fortunes were made, fashion became an essential way for both men and women to display status, taste, and wealth. Clothing was layered, structured, and often elaborate, with garments that showcased opulence and exclusivity. This article explores the critical elements of Gilded Age fashion, focusing on the defining women’s undergarments, the evolution of men’s suits, and the luxurious gowns that marked high society.
The Role of Corsets and Undergarments in Gilded Age Women’s Fashion
For women in the Gilded Age, getting dressed was far from a simple process. It involved multiple layers of undergarments, each with its role in achieving the desired silhouette that dominated fashion at the time. The iconic hourglass figure with a tiny waist, full bust, and hips was achieved through an intricate combination of corsets, petticoats, and other undergarments, each of which reflected broader cultural expectations of femininity.
The Corset: Shaping the Ideal Silhouette
The corset was perhaps the most critical garment in a Gilded Age woman’s wardrobe. It was worn to achieve the small-waisted look that was central to the ideal feminine figure of the period. Corsets were made from sturdy materials like whalebone or steel, and they were laced tightly to cinch the waist, often to as little as 18 or 20 inches in circumference. The corset not only provided a structured waist but also lifted the bust and enhanced the curves of the hips, creating the exaggerated hourglass figure that was highly coveted.
Despite the aesthetic appeal, corsets were notorious for their restrictive nature, often causing discomfort and even health issues due to prolonged tight lacing. Women who wore corsets for extended periods could experience breathing difficulties, muscle atrophy, and even organ displacement. Yet, social norms and expectations were so powerful that women of the time continued to wear corsets, as they were seen as a symbol of refinement, modesty, and respectability.
Layers of Undergarments: Petticoats, Bustles, and Chemises
Beyond the corset, a Gilded Age woman’s outfit included a range of additional layers. First was the chemise, a light, loose-fitting undergarment worn directly against the skin to protect outer garments from body oils and sweat. Over the chemise, women would wear bloomers or drawers, which provided modesty and warmth.
Petticoats were added next, giving skirts the desired fullness and volume. Depending on the style of the dress, women might wear multiple petticoats or even hoops to add shape to the skirts. For much of the Gilded Age, the bustle was also a prominent feature, especially in the 1870s and 1880s. The bustle was a padded or wired support worn under the back of the skirt to create an exaggerated curve at the hips, which gave skirts a dramatic, voluminous look. The bustle could be large and ostentatious or smaller and more subtle, depending on the style and occasion.
Together, these layers created a look that was both grand and highly structured, embodying the elegance and luxury that defined women’s fashion during the Gilded Age. While the undergarments were hidden beneath layers of fabric, they were essential in achieving the fashionable shapes and proportions of the time.
Gilded Age Men’s Fashion: The Evolution of the Suit
While women’s fashion in the Gilded Age was elaborate and complex, men’s fashion took a more streamlined approach, with a focus on sharp lines and tailored silhouettes. The suit became the standard attire for men, symbolizing professionalism, respectability, and status. Despite its simplicity compared to women’s clothing, men’s fashion in the Gilded Age was far from uniform; different styles and variations of suits conveyed a man’s social position, profession, and personality.
The Morning Suit and Daywear
During the Gilded Age, men’s suits varied based on the time of day and the occasion. For daytime wear, men commonly wore the morning suit, which included a cutaway coat, vest, and trousers. The cutaway coat, or “morning coat,” was tailored to fit closely through the torso and then flared out at the back, with long tails that reached down to the knees. This style of coat allowed for a clean, formal appearance without the weight and heat of a full-length frock coat.
The morning suit was typically worn with a waistcoat (vest) and striped or checked trousers, adding a level of sophistication and polish. Shirts were high-collared, often with stiffened points, and were usually paired with cravats or neckties tied in various styles. These elements combined to create a look that was formal yet suited to the active, bustling lives of Gilded Age men.
Evening Wear: The Tuxedo and White Tie
Evening wear for men was an essential part of Gilded Age high society. The tuxedo emerged during this period as a more modern alternative to traditional evening dress, which consisted of a tailcoat, white tie, and waistcoat. The tuxedo was seen as more relaxed and approachable, and it became popular among younger men and those in social circles who sought a more fashionable yet elegant appearance.
For formal events, however, men often wore white-tie attire, including a black tailcoat with satin or silk lapels, a white waistcoat, a crisp white shirt, and a white bow tie. This formal attire was mandatory for high-society events, and a man’s ability to adhere to this dress code was often seen as a marker of his social standing and awareness of etiquette. Accessories such as pocket watches, cufflinks, and walking sticks completed the look, allowing men to showcase subtle touches of wealth and taste.
The Rise of the Lounge Suit
By the end of the Gilded Age, the lounge suit began to gain popularity, particularly for less formal occasions. The lounge suit was a precursor to the modern business suit, featuring a matching jacket and trousers with a single-breasted or double-breasted jacket. It was less structured than the morning suit or frock coat and provided men with a practical, stylish alternative for everyday wear. The lounge suit reflected the shifting attitudes toward fashion, as men began to favor clothing that combined both comfort and style.
Extravagance and Status: High Society Gowns of the Gilded Age
Gilded Age high society was known for its opulence, and nowhere was this more apparent than in the gowns worn by women of the upper class. Fashionable women of the Gilded Age spared no expense when it came to their wardrobes, often commissioning custom-made gowns from Paris or from renowned American designers. These gowns were not merely articles of clothing; they were symbols of wealth, status, and social ambition.
Lavish Fabrics and Embellishments
Gowns of the Gilded Age were crafted from luxurious fabrics such as silk, satin, velvet, and taffeta. These rich materials were selected not only for their beauty but also for their durability, as Gilded Age gowns often involved intricate detailing that required a sturdy foundation. Many gowns featured heavy beading, lace, and embroidery, creating elaborate, shimmering designs that caught the light and drew attention.
Women’s evening gowns were often adorned with layers of lace, ruffles, and other embellishments that added texture and dimension. For high-society gatherings and events, women would wear ball gowns with low necklines, revealing shoulders and arms in a style that was considered both daring and elegant. The gowns were paired with long gloves, which were not only fashionable but also a status symbol, as they conveyed a sense of refinement and sophistication.
The Role of the Dressmaker and Parisian Influence
During the Gilded Age, many wealthy women traveled to Paris for custom-fitted gowns from famous couturiers such as Charles Frederick Worth, who is credited as one of the first fashion designers. Paris was the center of the fashion world, and a gown from a Parisian dressmaker was a prized possession that indicated wealth and access to the latest trends.
American dressmakers and designers also gained prominence during this time, catering to the growing demand for extravagant clothing among New York’s elite. Many dressmakers copied the styles of Parisian fashion houses, ensuring that American high society could keep up with European trends. Having a custom-made gown was a way for women to distinguish themselves and assert their individuality while still conforming to the era’s fashion standards.
Fashion as Social Status
In the Gilded Age, fashion was more than a matter of personal style; it was a means of establishing and displaying social status. Wealthy women attended balls, dinner parties, and other high-society events dressed in gowns that showcased their status and taste. Dresses were often worn only once or twice, as appearing in the same gown more than once was considered a social faux pas among the elite.
For women, fashion was a tool to secure their place in society and sometimes even to advance it. The elaborate gowns and extravagant accessories served as a visual representation of their family’s wealth, making them attractive prospects for advantageous marriages or influential social connections.
Conclusion
Gilded Age fashion, with its intricate undergarments, evolving men’s suits, and extravagant high-society gowns, offers a fascinating glimpse into the values, social structures, and ideals of the time. Women’s corsets and petticoats shaped the desired figure, symbolizing cultural expectations of femininity, while men’s suits reflected professionalism and respectability in an industrializing society. High society gowns, meanwhile, acted as symbols of wealth and status, with each layer, fabric, and embellishment meticulously chosen to convey luxury and refinement. The legacy of Gilded Age fashion continues to captivate, offering insight into an era that was as complex and layered as the clothing itself.
